Usb to stereo audio splitter11/21/2023 INSTALLATION: Extract all files and Run Setup Program All audio coming in the CABLE inputĭownload and Install VB-CABLE Driver Now! VB-CABLE is a virtual audio device working as virtual audio cable. Plus, that means I would have to run another huge box just for 2-channel listening.Donate and get two other Virtual Audio Devices: I'm not interested in DACing the signal in the computer.Īnother option would be to send the signal to my AVR first and use the digital outs to send a digital signal to the Outlaw - however, the outlaw DAC (which is GRRRREAT) is USB and I don't think any AVRs have USB out. But that's another component for just one task.Īnother option would be to hunt down a way to play multiple forms of audio out from my Windows computer but I have not found that yet. However, that way I would be losing any multichannel information in the d to a and a to d conversions.Īnother solution would be to get a DAC that has digital out so that I could still send the digital info to my AVR and the analog converted signal to the Outlaw. If that is not possible, one potential solution I see is to run an analog pre-out signal from the Outlaw to the AVR - selecting the analog signal as the audio source on the AVR. So, I was looking to split the USB signal to send one to the Outlaw and one to the AVR. I would like to avoid going to my taskbar and selecting an audio destination, each time I would like to hear/see something. As far as I know, HDMI audio and USB audio cannot be simultaneously active. In Windows, you have to choose an audio device you'd like to activate. I would like to handle both audio and video through the AVR for the benefit of 5.1. I would also like to send audio/video to an AVR for watching movies off my computer. Primarily, I use my computer to play itunes and flac through my audio receiver (Outlaw RR2150) which has a usb dac in it. Sometimes a device works better connected directly to one of the computer USB jacks than through the hub, so you might want to use a direct connection to the computer where available for the audio devices and then connect other devices through the hub. If you need a hub, I recommend the D-LINK 7-port USB hub, which you can get for about $25 at Wal-Mart and Amazon. If one device is off it is the same as if were not connected at all, and has no effect on other devices that are on and connected. Until this happens they are semi-dormant. Many USB devices only become "active" when they receive a dedicated set of "handshaking" signals that address and activate them. When you send any signal on the USB, it is available to all USB devices that are connected, but devices for which the data is inappropriate (such as printers) will simply not recognize or use it. It does not matter if a device is on or off. It just expands the number of physical USB connections available. If you need additional USB connections, just buy an inexpensive USB HUB, which has one input to connect to the computer and multiple USB jacks for additional devices. Many computers have USB sockets both on the rear panel and the front panel (or left and right on laptops etc.), so look carefully to see how many you have. The USB uses time-sharing multiplexing between any number of connected devices, so there is no such thing as a "splitter'. If you have multiple USB sockets on the computer, just connect the devices to them.
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